* Desirability points are awarded for features considered to be desired by most users.
All Minolta SRTs are fine usable Classic Cameras and some of these features may not be
desired by all. A perfect rating would be 9.0. Bear in mind, that some features were
dropped or added during a particular model run, such as the mirror lockup on the SRT 102.
Features
Shutter Speeds: Most SRTs have shutter Speeds of B, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000. A top shutter of 1/1000 second, is a very
desirable feature for high speed subjects and very bright scenes. Our modern fast
films make this top speed a requirement for all around use. The top speed of 1/500 second
on the SRT100 limits the use of high speed films, to about 400 speed, in bright
conditions. This can, of course, be overcome, by using neutral density filters or
selecting a slower film.
Self Timer: The self Timer used in the SRT line is a purely mechanical device
allowing a delayed shutter firing of about 10 to 15 seconds. A self timer is seldom used
feature, however it can enhance sharpness when used with a tripod, or allow you to get
into your own picture. The self timer lever is often found to be sticky or inoperable due
to non-use. A shutter cable release might be a better choice, for less camera shake,
although you'd need a very long one, to get in your own shot.
Mirror Lockup: The Mirror Lockup feature allows for the mirror to be locked into
the upright position to eliminate noise and vibration from the mirror cycle, during
shutter firing. Its switch is located on upper right side of the lens mount. This feature
is another aid to sharper images, using a tripod or not. It is particularly favored by
astro-photographers to eliminate camera shake, from the mirror action, when used with a
very long lens or a telescope. It also makes your SRT much quieter, useful for wildlife or
candid shots.
DOF Preview: The control for the DOF Preview is button. located on the lower
right side of the lens mount. This feature allows for an actual depth of field preview of
the picture in the viewfinder, by stopping the lens down to the selected aperture before
shooting. Depth of field control, can render your otherwise, plain snap-shots, into very
pleasing images. Some earlier Minolta MC lenses had a built-in depth of field preview
lever.
Visible in Viewfinder: Two types of viewfinders were found on the SRT. One had a
small window in the front of the prism housing that allowed the aperture setting of the
lens to be seen in the viewfinder. All SRTs, except the SRT 100 and 200, had the selected
shutter speed displayed in the viewfinder. Having the selected shutter and aperture
visible in the viewfinder is a very convenient feature for ease of use. It eliminates the
necessity for checking the top and front of the camera prior to shooting each frame.
Multi-Exposure: This feature works by depressing the rewind lock button before
advancing the film. The film does not advance and the shutter is cocked for another shot
on the same frame of film. The ability to shoot multiple images on the same frame is a
rarely used feature, except by the most creative of users. I have seen some pretty
impressive photos using this feature.
Hot Shoe: The Hot Shoe replaced the Cold Shoe of the earlier SRTs. It had wiring
to a connection with the shutter flash synchronization circuit. Since a lot of flash units
do not have connections for a PC cord, this feature can be vital for some users. Remember
that keeping the contacts clean is very important.
Memo Holder: Some of the later SRTs had a small frame on the camera back for
storing a film box tab. This feature is often underrated. Some of us have been known to
forget the type and speed of film loaded in our SRT. Having the film box tab at hand, helps
eliminate exposure mistakes.
Safe Film Indicator: Later SRTs had a window just below the film advance lever.
This window would display a red flag that advanced to the right, signaling that the film
was indeed advancing. Having this feature could have prevented, the loss of a whole roll
of images, when the film tab slipped out of the take-up spool, on an assignment. I can
think of nothing, more depressing than to find that the film didn't advance for all the pictures,
you just shot on a roll of film. Noticing that the film counter has started to go
around twice, is very troubling indeed. There is a work-around for the lack of this
feature. When you load your film, lightly turn the rewind crank in the clockwise direction
until it tightens. This will remove any slack in the film inside the canister. Watch for
the crank to turn when you advance the film, signifying that the film is advancing as it
should.
Type: 35mm single-lens reflexes with match-needle/manual exposure control.
Lens mount: Minolta SLR bayonet, 54 degree rotating angle; coupling for
full-aperture metering and automatic diaphragm control with MC or MD mount lenses.
Light-metering: Full-aperture TTL type with overlapping readings taken by 2 CdS
cells mounted on pentaprism and CLC circuit to provide optimum exposure in both flat- and
most contrast-lighted situations; stop-down metering also possible.
Power: One 1.35V mercury cell, PX-625 or equivalent, contained in camera base.
These mercury cell are getting hard to find since being outlawed in most countries.
Conversions to modern batteries do exist.
Exposure control: Turning shutter-speed dial and/or lens aperture ring to align
follower with meter needle visible in finder yields proper exposure according to metering
system indication at the film speed set.
Shutter: Horizontal-traverse, mechanically controlled, rubberized silk cloth,
focal-plane type.
Mirror: Oversize quick-return type.
Finder: Eye-level pentaprism type showing 94% of 24x36mm film-frame area.
Magnification: 0.83X with 50mm lens focused at infinity. A 58mm lens, gives a 1X
magnification at infinity, thereby producing a life size view to the user as with the
naked eye. The Minolta MC 58mm f 1.4, Rokkor-PF lens is the perfect, fast, high
quality, sharp, normal lens for any SRT. They can be had, for around $50.00 on eBay. This
lens is my favorite lens. The f1.2 version is a great and beautiful lens also, but
typically sells for about three times the price, and is not that much better. Most
pictures are shot at around f 8, so the main advantage of a real fast lens is the
brightness of the image in the viewfinder.
Flash sync.: X or FP delay.
Film advance: Lever type, single- or multiple-stroke, 150 degree winding angle
after 20 degree engaged movement to allow offsetting from body. Advancing-type exposure
counter resets automatically when camera back is opened. The black plastic tip of the
lever is sometimes missing but is only a cosmetic issue.
Dimensions: 145 x 47.5 x 95mm (5-3/4 x 1-7/8 x 3-3/4 in.) without lens.
Professional Models
Most, if not all, Minolta SRTs were available in a Professional Black finish.
They all command a premium price, although they were just painted brass, and somewhat
cheaper to produce. I have never understood why a black camera, which shows wear very
easily, would be considered a professional unit. Most Professional Photographers typically
hammer their equipment. Most of the black SRTs that are found today, are in very poor
cosmetic condition, with scratches and brassing. The chrome units, hold up much better, in
heavy professional use. The label, Professional, is more a measure of the
Photographer than the Camera, anyway. Much has been said, about Minolta never breaking
into the professional market. I doubt that it really troubled them much however, since
there are a lot more amateurs and wantabes, out there, than professionals. How many
people do you know that make their living taking pictures?
Buying SRTs
The very Collectible Minolta SRT series cameras are widely available and represent good
value as a useable 35mm camera. Knowing what to look for in these models can save you
disappointment and expense. What follows, is a list of some known problems that SRTs can
develop over time, with explanations and/or fixes.
SRT Problems;
Sticking or Inoperable Meter, The meter movements on the SRTs rarely if ever
actually fail. Always check the battery connections for corrosion or dirt. Most common
sticky meter problems are because the needle stops have degraded and turned to goo. The
stops are made of urethane foam and after years of exposure to ozone or tobacco smoke, get
real sticky and fall apart. The same material is used for the seals for the camera back.
This can be repaired, but best left to a camera shop.
Inaccurate Meter Readings, The SRT metering system uses two CdS cells mounted to
the pentaprism to obtain correct exposure information. Again, battery type and condition
have everything to do with meter accuracy. The CdS cells are pretty much bullet-proof and
rarely fail themselves. These CdS cells are actually cemented to smaller prisms and then
to the pentaprism. The cement used for this purpose, can crystallize and darken with age
and can even detach. If one or both cells have separated, low light readings will result.
To check the function of the cells, you need to check for two peaks in the meter
deflection, one just above the center of the focus screen and one just below. The cells
and prisms can be cleaned with acetone and re-cemented with clear epoxy. The repair
requires disassembly of the upper part of the camera and is best performed by a skilled
technician.
Sticking Shutter Curtains, If the shutter curtains stick or hesitate at any
speed, a CLA (Cleaning, Lubrication and Adjustment) is needed. The shutter curtain
bearings can become dry or the springs for them can lose their tension.
Sticking or Stuck Mirror, The SRT series has a foam stop or cushion at the top
if the mirror chamber to lessen the noise produced, and the shock to the delicate mirror
when it closes. This foam cushion can become sticky with age and cause the mirror to stay
in the up position or delay return. A clue to this condition is foam residue on the
forward part of the mirror. Repairing this condition is a simple process of replacing the
foam. The foam is available from suppliers and not a difficult repair for the mechanically
adept.
Dirty Mirror, Seeing a big fingerprint or other debris on the mirror, looks easy
to clean off. It is not that easy, since the mirror is the "front surface" type.
This means that the front surface of the mirror is coated with a very thin aluminum
deposit. If the smudge has been there a long time or someone tried to clean it with a rag,
it's probably a hopeless condition. Careful cleaning, using a Q-tip moistened with acetone
or alcohol and light pressure, can bring most mirrors back to near original condition. Use
very light pressure and repeat as needed. If the mirror is not too dirty, it is hardly
noticeable in the view finder. It can make the image appear a little darker. The mirror,
regardless of condition, of course has no effect on the image on film.
Shutter Does Not Fire, This can be caused by bent or broken linkage in the
release mechanism. Since the SRT is a totally mechanical camera, electronics are not an
issue, as they are in later models. It may fire at some speeds and not others. Most
qualified technicians can repair this condition but not cheaply.
Light Leaks, Most light leaks on a SRT are from degraded foam light seals in the
back of the body. A clue to this problem is sticky residue on the camera back where it
seals with the body. Again this seal material is available and not too difficult to
replace.
Film not Advancing, This problem can be as simple as a bent linkage or a failure
of the film transport clutch mechanism. SRTs with this problem are best left alone or
purchased only for parts.
Missing Film Advance Tip, Missing this part is strictly a cosmetic issue and in
no way harms function. I am not aware of replacement parts of this type being available
except from a "parts camera". It is best to replace the whole advance arm than
to try to glue a tip on.
Aperture Ring Loose or Jammed, The ring around the lens mount with a pin on it
is the way that the camera communicates the lens opening to the metering system. This is
done by a cord and series of pulleys. The cord is attached to the ring at one end and the
meter movement at the other. The cord can be broken, or off of one of it's pulleys or
separated from the ring or the meter itself. Sticking or jamming of this ring can be
because dirt has made it's way into the ring recess and would need a simple cleaning and
light lubrication.
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